Thursday, February 4, 2010
So, back on the island,but now way colder than the last one.Havent surf yet because of some shoulder pain that keeps bugging me from the car/bike accident I suffered in the fall.I did not ask to get hit by a driver that did not pay attention while on the road.I had my right off way,had a helmet on and in a matter of seconds i was on the ground with a dislocated shoulder and a lot of fricking pain.Well, it has being a couple months and recovery is really slow and i feel that my shoulder will never be the same.Still surfing and having fun but also taking good care of my injury.If i had the opportunitie now one of my wishes would be getting to not feel this stupid pain i feel when i am in the water. I have being home for a few days and tomorrow will be the first day surfing in canadian waters,swell looks good and temperature is not as bad,well not for Canada 9 degrees in the water and about 11 outside. It has being 5 years since i arrived in Canada and I just realized that this place did offer some good moments to me and my family.Met some nice people and some not so nice,heehehe, well anywhere in the world you will experience that no matter where you are. Work is good, surf is also pretty fun and both together are a great combination specially when in a country that surfing is not a tradition.All of us that are involved with this amazing sport are really fortunate.I did not believe that it was possible coming from a country where the waves were at my doorstep and the water was in average 22 degrees celsius everyday,people were surfing in frigid waters and loving it,well with wetsuit technology it is not an impossible thing to do anymore,specially when you wear a RIP CURL H BOMB that has a heater in it,oh man Is that thing warm or what??? Tomorrow i will surf some waves with my buddy Keegan and also meet our good friend Leah Oke.By the way this girl is an amazing surfer and who would think that she is from Canada,she surfs like a man or better than 90% of the mens in Canada. Good on you RAEOKEYYYYYYYYYYY. Well above or below are some pics of my last surf in Hawaii,Got some fun waves in Hawaii and lets see what my next session has to offer me in Canada EH?