So, back in Hawaii after 2 years.Last year i had to recovery from my accident in Mexico(broken leg surfing),so unfortunately i couldnt come to Hawaii and went to Brazil instead to visit my family,train and work.
So far, this season the waves havent stopped.Everyday the surf is at least 4 to 6 foot and some days over 25 feet.Since i got here a few days ago i surfed some pretty fun and heavy waves,from V -land to some secret spots.
Today i went to an amazing a - frame 500 meters from shore that had waves from 4 to 8 feet.Super heavy a frame and i got some interesting hold downs from some powerfull waves and also some amazing carves and barrels that i havent experienced in a while,maybe since Teahupo-Tahiti.
Hawaii is always a place that if you come surfing you have to be really positive on your atitudes and also be prepared for the buoys to show some 16feet at 18 secs, like it is going to be in the next few days.This means Waimea will be breaking again.
Anyway, i will update this blog again when i have some more news and off course pictures.
Above are a few pics of my first day surfing some fun little waves.
Really excited to see my family in a few days.
Cheers,
Chris Careca Moutinho.
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